| Bigobyamugenyi is a place believed to have | | | | compound. At the entrance are two huts that |
| harboured the Chwezi around 1500 A.D. It derives | | | | were formerly occupied by the kings' soldiers - |
| its name from the forested enclosure of trees | | | | locally referred to as the Wankaki. |
| around the former Chwezi palace. There are | | | | "The huts are inhabited by guests who seek to |
| two-tree pinnacles that welcome you to the | | | | have their problems solved. Depending on the |
| about 350 hectare expanse. | | | | nature of their problems, they stay for a given |
| After spending a night in Masaka town, I felt | | | | period of time," Mugenyi explained. According to |
| fresh enough to embark on my journey to one | | | | him, some of the visitors include some of the rich |
| of the places my junior school teacher had talked | | | | and famous people in the country. |
| of in a manner that made it seem only imaginary. | | | | Found in the compound are a number of local fire |
| However, this time it was my job leading me to | | | | places, each representing one of the kings' |
| this adventurous expedition - to Bigobyamugenyi. | | | | kinsmen with their respective spiritual functions. |
| It was a memorable journey, and not an easy | | | | Mugenyi, who claims to be a descendant of the |
| one I can confess. | | | | Chwezi, took his name after one of the kings. |
| Bigobyamugenyi is about 15 kilometres from | | | | Folk tale is that King Mugenyi invited Wamara, |
| Ntuse, a small trading centre. The road to this site | | | | who was famous for his miraculous |
| which is probably one of the potential tourist | | | | performances. |
| attractions, is bouncy and winding. Bigobyamugenyi | | | | "He is believed to have been a demi-god with |
| is a long distance through a thick forest. | | | | supernatural powers," he says of Wamara. |
| To get to the site, we had to fight off shrubs to | | | | Lutasandagwa who had sons, Kato and Kakuru, |
| clear our way to the site. As we move, Jajja | | | | was one of his chiefs. Mugenyi claims that to |
| Mugenyi, the cultural guide, tells me some of the | | | | date, he still experiences visions through which the |
| historical events that have shaped this Chwezi site | | | | spirits communicate and guide him on their plans |
| that the government has recently offered to | | | | for specific changes they want effected in the |
| take and develop. He adds that the gods would | | | | palace. "Sometimes, they appear to me and then |
| deliberately cause floods to close off the area | | | | disappear. In the night, they will cause fire to |
| whenever they (gods) were in recess, or when | | | | appear at the hill slopes," he adds. |
| they had converged. | | | | Out of the compound is a ditch locally called Luzi |
| Bigobyamugenyi, as I later on learn, is a place | | | | lwa Ssalongo (Ssalongo's well), where worshippers |
| believed to have harboured the Chwezi around | | | | pray and make offerings. We are instructed to |
| 1500A.D. It derives its name from what the | | | | remove our shoes at this spot. |
| forested enclosure of trees around the former | | | | "To have your prayers accepted by the gods, |
| Chwezi palace. There are two-tree pinnacles that | | | | worshippers have to dedicate themselves at this |
| welcome you to the about 350 hectare expanse. | | | | spot for nine days and nights," he emphasises. |
| "There are a number of medicinal plants and trees | | | | Just a stone's throwaway, is Enkomi ya bachwezi, |
| here but you are requested not to pluck them | | | | a cyclical compound where the Chwezi are |
| without prior permission," he warned. He added | | | | believed to have one of their most important |
| that apart from the spiritual healing guests come | | | | assets, the cattle. Mugenyi says it was put up by |
| to seek, some of these plants have, over time, | | | | Chwezi king Ndahura. In there are hoof prints of |
| become part of the prescription. | | | | his favourite cow, Bihogo. Just next to it is a hole |
| Further away from here are two cleared routes. | | | | where the bahwezi are believed to have kept |
| Whereas the subjects moved through the | | | | their treasure box that Mugenyi alleges had gold |
| forested area, the Chwezi kings moved through | | | | and silver the kings acquired from their war |
| the two tracks, which were not to be used by | | | | expeditions. |
| residents except when the king authorises. | | | | Mugenyi says the hole signifies the dig-up by the |
| The routes are located a few metres outside the | | | | whites from Portugal who stole the treasure. And |
| king's compound surrounded by ditches, probably | | | | with all these tales, Mugenyi claims there are still |
| as a security measure to stop intruders from | | | | many secrets the gods have kept from him. By |
| accessing the palace. | | | | this time, I need to relax but not in this part of |
| Further north, it is also closed off by River | | | | the country where the only option would be to |
| Katonga. Just above the river and far away from | | | | join the village elders drinking a local brew. I could |
| the main compound are historical stones where | | | | have done with some cold water after a long |
| the kings would hold their meetings. | | | | day's adventure but I had to catch a cab back to |
| The king's compound is characterised by cultural | | | | Sembabule for another experience. Oh, what a |
| royal regalia such as old spears fixed upright. | | | | day! |
| There are also shields and huts that dot the | | | | |